Recent developments in the European Union (EU), such as the latest opinions of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), highlight the evolution of cosmetics safety scrutiny. This increased focus on consumer health and safety, particularly regarding endocrine disruptors, is not shared by the US cosmetics market.
Endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs) interfere with hormonal signaling, which can impact the reproductive and nervous systems, metabolism, and increase the risk of cancer. Some of these chemicals mimic natural hormones, confusing the body and resulting in symptoms like increased muscle mass or insulin overproduction. Other chemicals block the effects of hormones from their receptors, adversely affecting fetal development. While others directly stimulate or inhibit the endocrine system itself, causing overproduction or underproduction of hormones.
Some of the health effects are limited in duration, subsiding when exposure to EDCs is reduced; others are far more long-term and detrimental. Research on EDCs and debate around suspected EDCs is ongoing, but the US Environmental Protection Agency observes that "there is little doubt that small disturbances in endocrine function, particularly during certain highly sensitive stages of the lifecycle [...] can lead to profound and lasting effects."
Numerous studies have detected a wide range of EDCs, like avobenzone or octinoxate, in the urine, cord blood, plasma, amniotic fluid, and breast milk of most pregnant women. The harmful effects of endocrine disruptors on unborn babies are vividly illustrated by the case of diethylstilbestrol (DES), a synthetic estrogen prescribed to millions of pregnant women before this practice was banned in the 1970s. Intended to prevent miscarriage, DES later proved to disrupt reproductive development and cause vaginal cancer.
Prevalence of Endocrine Disruptors in Perfumes
This issue is compounded by the number of products people are exposed to on a daily basis. Women in both the United States and the EU use 12 personal care products a day on average, according to environmental group EWG.
A different European study published in 2022 collected information on the ingredients used in 20 popular perfumes in Belgium, Denmark, and the Netherlands. It found that every selected product contained problematic substances, with all but two of them containing suspected EDCs, such as benzyl salicylate, BHT, butylphenyl methylpropional, octocrylene, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (i.e., octinoxate).
The authors noted that other scientific studies have clearly demonstrated that "exposure to EDCs has contributed to increases in the incidence of neurodevelopmental, reproductive, and metabolic disorders, as well as some cancers."
Not only do EDCs in perfumes represent a developmental danger and a public health risk, some of these chemical compounds "share configurational similarity with carcinogenic environmental hydrocarbons." This suggests that they have a real potential to cause cancer, on top of causing excess estrogen, which can lead to infertility in men, among other risks.
Moreover, the cumulative effect of exposure to multiple EDCs from various sources, including fragrances, is a growing concern. Even at low concentrations, these chemicals can work synergistically, potentially triggering adverse effects that might not occur with exposure to a single substance.
Regulatory Disparities: US vs. EU
The regulatory landscape for fragrance ingredients indeed varies significantly between the United States and the European Union, with the EU taking a more proactive stance on consumer safety. While the EU bans over 1,500 chemical substances in cosmetics and imposes strict ingredient labeling requirements, the US has adopted a more lenient policy.
In the EU, manufacturers are now required to disclose 82 specific fragrance allergens on product labels, up from 26 following the recent update in July 2023. This expanded list includes 28 natural extracts and 54 individual chemicals, significantly enhancing transparency and allowing consumers to make more informed choices about the products they use.
In addition, in Europe, perfume producers must indicate the presence of UV filters that may act as endocrine disruptors. For instance, avobenzone, a common UV filter used in fragrances and cosmetics, must be listed on labels under its INCI name "BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE" or the abbreviation "BMDBM" when present above certain concentration thresholds. There are multiple examples of disparities between ingredient indications for the same product, of the same brand, in the American and European markets. Notably, this includes the presence or absence of indications about avobenzone (BMDBM).
European levels of disclosure stand in stark contrast to US regulations, which still permit the use of "fragrance" as a catch-all term on labels, effectively concealing specific ingredients from consumers. This regulatory gap has significant implications for consumer safety, as American consumers may be left unaware of potential exposure to endocrine disrupting chemicals and other potentially harmful substances in their favorite fragrances.
The EU's approach, which includes mandatory labeling of UV filters and other potential endocrine disruptors, represents a significant step towards greater transparency and consumer protection in the fragrance industry. This proactive stance allows consumers to make more informed decisions about the products they use, potentially reducing exposure to substances of concern.
The UV Filter Parallel: A Broader Perspective
The debate surrounding endocrine disruptors in fragrances mirrors similar controversy in the realm of the UV filters used in sunscreens and other cosmetics. Both issues highlight the complex interplay between consumer products, human health, and environmental impact.
UV filters, like some fragrance ingredients, have been associated with endocrine disruption, estrogenic activity, and potential environmental harm. Compounds such as avobenzone and octinoxate, common in sunscreens, have raised concerns about their impact on hormonal systems and marine ecosystems.
This parallel underscores the need for a comprehensive approach to safety assessments in personal care products. As with fragrances, the long-term effects of chronic exposure to UV filters are not fully understood, emphasizing the importance of ongoing research and regulatory scrutiny.
Despite indifferent regulation in the US, there are efforts aimed at creating greater transparency and safety within the fragrance industry. One notable example is IFRA, an international organization improving transparency through an ingredients registry. The IFRA Transparency List provides information to people inside and outside the fragrance industry about all ingredients used by IFRA members worldwide.
A report by ChemForward highlights that one-third of the 318,000 ingredients found in beauty and personal care products lack public toxicological profiles, and around 45 chemicals categorized as "high hazard" are commonly used in products. This underscores the need to continue to identify and eliminate hazardous substances through the development of safer alternatives.
The widespread presence of endocrine disrupting chemicals in perfumes and personal care products poses significant health risks to the public. While the EU enforces stricter regulations, the US remains troublingly lenient, permitting hazardous ingredients to be included under vague labeling. Despite ongoing research and industry-led transparency efforts, there is a need for stronger oversight.
- https://news.ceway.eu/understanding-eu-regulation-2024-996-essential-updates-for-cosmetic-ingredients/
- https://www.epa.gov/endocrine-disruption/overview-endocrine-disruption
- https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8072457/
- https://www.ewg.org/personal-care-products-safety-act-would-improve-cosmetics-safety
- https://taenk.dk/system/files/2022-01/Whats-that-smell-report-parfume.pdf
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28478814/
- https://ecomundo.eu/en/blog/new-eu-fragrance-allergen-labeling-rules-explained
- https://echa.europa.eu/fr/substance-information/-/substanceinfo/100.067.779
- https://www.calvinklein.us/en/men/fragrance/fragrance/ck-one-essence-parfum-intense/44015532-000.html?journey=Folder_0000059
- https://www.artworkflowhq.com/resources/top-20-differences-between-us-eu-cosmetic-regulations
- https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A02009R1223-20240424
- https://www.mdpi.com/2673-396X/5/3/27
- https://ifrafragrance.org/priorities/ingredients/ifra-transparency-list
- https://static1.squarespace.com/static/60611efa464a766c6a812834/t/6716ce40dbd5384145f29b56/1729547841086/BPC+IIR+Report_FINAL.pdf
